Embroidery

Embroidery Thread and Floss: Hand Floss vs Machine Thread

DMC embroidery floss pack

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Quick answerHand embroidery uses six-strand cotton floss that you separate into the number of strands your pattern calls for; DMC's comes in 8.7 yard skeins. Machine embroidery uses spooled thread, typically polyester or rayon; Superior Threads says most digitized designs are made for 40 weight. Polyester is the tougher choice for things that get bleached or sit in the sun, per Madeira.

"Embroidery thread" means two different products depending on whether you stitch by hand or by machine. Here's how each works, according to DMC, Madeira, Superior Threads and Brother.

Hand embroidery: six-strand floss

DMC's six-strand floss is 100% cotton, double mercerized and sold in 8.7 yard skeins. DMC says it comes in about 500 colors.

  • Separate the strands. DMC says floss is designed to be separated, and you won't usually stitch with all six. DMC says using different numbers of strands changes the look.
  • Pull one strand at a time. Tap the end, pull a single strand straight up to avoid tangles, then recombine the number you want.
  • Cut about 18 inches. DMC says a maximum of 50 cm (18 inches), or fingertip to elbow. Cut at a 45 degree angle with sharp scissors.

DMC's popular colors pack has 36 skeins, one of each color; the holiday pack has 30, per the listings.

DMC Embroidery Floss, Popular Colors (36 Skeins)
36 colors, 8.7 yd skeins

DMC Embroidery Floss, Popular Colors (36 Skeins)

  • 36 skeins, one each of 36 colors, per the listing
  • 8.7 yards of divisible 6-strand thread per skein
  • Double mercerized; listed as colorfast
Check price on Amazon
DMC Embroidery Floss, Holiday Decor (30 Skeins)
30 colors

DMC Embroidery Floss, Holiday Decor (30 Skeins)

  • 30 skeins, one each of 30 colors, per the listing
  • 8.7 yards of divisible 6-strand thread per skein
  • Double mercerized
Check price on Amazon

Machine embroidery: spooled thread

What "40 weight" means

Superior Threads explains that a smaller weight number means a heavier thread, and that thread is labeled 40 wt. when 40 kilometers weigh 1 kilogram. It says most digitized designs are created for 40 weight thread. Madeira also makes 60 weight for small lettering and 75 weight for very fine detail.

Rayon vs polyester

  • Rayon: Madeira says it's softer and more flexible, needs lighter tension than polyester, and should be kept away from bleach, whiteners and brighteners. It also says rayon fades with long exposure to sunlight.
  • Polyester: harder hand and more durable in hard-wearing conditions, per Madeira. Its Polyneon polyester is listed as resistant to fading from sunlight and bleach.
  • Madeira says both are equally shiny.

Needles: Madeira recommends 65/9, 70/10 or 75/11 embroidery needles for its 40 weight threads.

Storing thread

Brother says to keep embroidery thread away from heat, light and moisture, notes direct sunlight is very destructive, and gives ideal storage as 59°F to 77°F with 40% to 60% humidity.

Thread sets

If your machine is a Brother, sets labeled with Brother color numbers make it easy to match a design's color chart. Simthread's 63 spools are labeled with matching Brother color numbers, and Embroidex's 63 spools are listed in Brother colors; both are 40 weight polyester, 500 m per spool, per the listings. New brothread's 40-color kit comes with a color chart.

Simthread 63-Color Polyester Embroidery Machine Thread
63 colors, Brother numbers

Simthread 63-Color Polyester Embroidery Machine Thread

  • 63 spools labeled with matching Brother color numbers, per the listing
  • 40 weight, 500 m (550 yd) per spool
  • Trilobal polyester; color chart included
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Embroidex 63-Color Polyester Embroidery Machine Thread
63 Brother colors

Embroidex 63-Color Polyester Embroidery Machine Thread

  • 63 spools in Brother colors, per the listing
  • 40 weight polyester, 500 m (550 yd) per spool
Check price on Amazon
New brothread 40-Color Polyester Embroidery Machine Thread
40 colors + chart

New brothread 40-Color Polyester Embroidery Machine Thread

  • 40 spools with a color chart, per the listing
  • 40 weight, 500 m (550 yd) per spool
  • Rack not included
Check price on Amazon

For the bobbin, Brother's SE-series tips say to use 60 weight embroidery bobbin thread. See bobbins.

FAQ

How many strands of floss?

Whatever your pattern says. DMC says you usually won't use all six.

How long should I cut it?

About 18 inches, per DMC.

Rayon or polyester?

Rayon is softer; polyester stands up better to bleach and sun, per Madeira.

Sources

  1. DMC: How to use stranded embroidery floss
  2. DMC: Six-strand embroidery floss
  3. Madeira USA: Rayon embroidery thread
  4. Madeira USA: Polyneon polyester thread
  5. Superior Threads: Understanding thread weight
  6. Brother Support: Creating beautiful embroidery (threads)