Sewing Thread Explained: All-Purpose Polyester, Cotton and Weights
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Here's what the thread and machine makers say.
All-purpose polyester
SINGER says household sewing machines are designed for regular all-purpose thread, and most all-purpose thread is 100% polyester. Gütermann describes its Sew-All as the right thread for all fabrics and seams, 100% polyester, suitable for machine and hand sewing, and recommends a universal needle in size 70 to 90.
A 10-spool set of Sew-All in basic colors is a simple way to stock up. For a color you use constantly, the jumbo 1,094 yard spool. Sizes per the listings.
Gütermann Sew-All Thread Set, 10 x 100 m
- 10 spools of 100 m Sew-All in basic colors, per the listing
- Polyester
- Recommended needle: Universal 70 to 90
Gütermann Sew-All Thread, 1,094 yd, Nu White
- Jumbo spool, 1,094 yd, per the listing
- 100% polyester, all-purpose
- For hand and machine sewing
Gütermann Sew-All Thread, Black, 250 m
- 250 m spool, 100% polyester, per the listing
- Listed for all materials and seams, by hand or machine
Cotton thread
SINGER says you can use cotton thread for quilting. Superior Threads recommends cotton for piecing because of its high heat tolerance and the way it grips the fabric, and notes that polyester threads usually have very little or no lint while cotton lint depends on quality. See our quilting guide.
What thread weight numbers mean
Superior Threads explains that a smaller weight number means a heavier thread, and that thread is labeled 40 wt. when 40 kilometers of it weigh 1 kilogram. It also warns that different systems exist: a spool stamped "No. 100" isn't a 100 weight thread. Gütermann labels Sew-All as "No. 100" on its product page.
Heavy thread: go easy
SINGER says using heavy thread constantly will eventually damage a household machine's tension. When you do use it, SINGER suggests a size 16 or 18 needle and a longer stitch. For needles, see our needle guide.
Serger thread
New Mexico State Extension says serger cone thread comes in cones of more than 1,000 yards. Maxi-Lock cones are 3,000 yards of spun polyester each, listed for overlocking light to medium fabrics.
Maxi-Lock All-Purpose Serger Thread, 4 x 3,000 yd, White
- Four 3,000-yard cones of spun polyester, per the listing
- Listed for overlock sewing on light to medium fabrics
Bobbin thread
Brother says to use correctly wound bobbin thread, or the needle may break or the tension will be off. For machine embroidery, Brother's tips call for 60 weight embroidery bobbin thread. See bobbins.
FAQ
Which thread for my machine?
All-purpose polyester, per SINGER.
Cotton or polyester for quilting?
SINGER says cotton is fine for quilting; Superior recommends it for piecing.
What does weight mean?
Lower number, heavier thread; 40 wt. means 40 km weighs 1 kg.